8V 100mA Axial Lamp .16″ x .8″
They are the solder in type. They also come in 6 and 12 volt for the similar selling price. You may want to get a 6V to consider but I am really certain they are the 8V. The lamp circuit is 6V and Teac was very regular, at the very least with the meter lamps I have skilled, at utilizing 8V lamps in parallel pairs with a 6VDC electric power rail, or 8V lamps in collection an 11VAC ability rail. I’m certain they are not the 12V version.
If you want to do LED’s you can most likely have to have to place a present-day restricting resistor in there.
It is a little bit of a PITA to get to the meters and then even extra to get to the lamps by themselves. Not difficult by any implies. Took me about 30 minutes to do the adhering to (and thoughts you this is on a 308 so you can expect to have much more screws to eliminate):
1. The very first detail you want to do is suggestion the mixer on its facet, and remove the bottom rear panel. This will expose the back finish of the channel playing cards and such as properly as the inside of of the jack panel. The base entrance flange of the meter bridge housing is sandwiched in in between the again of the regulate surface area dress panel and an inside cross-member…I circled these screws in pink:
2. Zooming in, these screws are a obstacle to get to, but mainly because the meter bridge housing is slotted for the over stated screws, you you should not have to take out the screws, just loosen them. Tight room, but I utilized a #2 philips little bit and a 1/4″ mixture wrench. Maintain the bit on the screw head with a finger on one particular hand, change the wrench with the other. Do every single of the screws. There are 3 on the 308, probably 4 on the 312, and probably 5 on the 320:
3. Now carefully set the mixer back down with the back again experiencing you. Take away the two screws in every single of the remaining and right plastic meter bridge trim caps…these ones:
4. At the time all those are taken out you are going to see two screws on each and every facet that attach the housing to the side rails of the mixer…get ’em out…4 in all:
5. Now, alongside the again of the mixer at the prime of the jack panel are screws that connect the meter bridge housing to the jack panel. Get rid of people. Yet again, there are 3 on the 308, in all probability 4 on the 312, and likely 5 on the 320:
6. You should now be able to operate the meter bridge straight upwards. Prior to you do so, lay a towel throughout the regulate area so you have a little something gentle to lay the meter bridge on…guard that mixer!
7. The meter pairs are held on by two screws. Choose those people out and that pair will fall out of the housing:
8. This is wherever it get’s annoying…Unless of course you want to desolder the VU meter from the PCB (which I never recommend unless it is essential), its a tiny challenging to get the meter lense divided from the confront of the meter. Teac utilized a very clear tape to keep the lenses on…rather widespread, but on the 300-sequence there are three pieces of tape…one particular on every side of the lense toward the bottom of the lense, and a single on the best middle. Because of the metallic bracket that floats concerning the PCB and the meters (and keeps the meter fairly aligned) you cannot immediately entry the tape strips in amongst the pair, or the a person at the top rated. Simplest thing to do is to carefully use a razor blade to cut the tape on the sides and then gently lever the lense up at the base. If you are thorough you can get the lense to different from the best piece of tape permitting you to lift it free of charge. Be careful as you do not want to tweak the meter confront in the system. Other Teac meters are much easier than this. Note: when placing factors back again with each other you can use a new piece of tape on the uncovered facet, or no tape at all. When the meters are back again in the housing the entire mess gets held jointly with hardware. The tape is there to keep matters together as it moves down the assembly line IMO. Listed here are 4 pics, move 1 reducing the tape in involving the meter pair, stage 2 cutting the tape on the uncovered side, move 3 levering the lense up, and phase 4 the lense finally set no cost from its bondage:
In that final photo you can obviously see the lamp all set for alternative. Time to convert on that soldering iron! As soon as the lamp(s) is/are replaced reassembly is the reverse of the higher than.